Alpine Horn—Sunrise at Night CHAPTER XXIX Everything Convenient—Looking for a Western Sunrise—Mutual Recrimination—View from the Summit—Down the Mountain—Railroading—Confidence Wanted and Acquired CHAPTER XXX A Trip by Proxy—A Visit to the Furka Regions—Deadman’s Lake—Source of the Rhone—Glacier Tables—Storm in the Mountains—At Grindelwald—Dawn on the Mountains—An Explanation Required—Dead Language—Criticism of Harris’s Report CHAPTER XXXI Preparations for a Tramp—From Lucerne to Interlaken—The Brunig Pass—Modern and Ancient Chalets—Death of Pontius Pilate—Hermit Home of St Nicholas—Landslides—Children Selling Refreshments—How they Harness a Horse—A Great Man—Honors to a Hero—A Thirsty Bride—For Better or Worse—German Fashions—Anticipations—Solid Comfort—An Unsatisfactory \ Awakening—What we had Lost—Our Surroundings CHAPTER XXXII The Jungfrau Hotel—A Whiskered Waitress—An Arkansas Bride—Perfection in Discord—A Famous Victory—A Look from a Window—About the Jungfrau CHAPTER XXXIII The Giesbach Falls—The Spirit of the Alps—Why People Visit Them—Whey and Grapes as Medicines—The Kursaal—A Formidable Undertaking—From Interlaken to Zermatt on Foot—We Concluded to take a Buggy—A Pair of Jolly Drivers—We meet with Companions—A Cheerful Ride—Kandersteg Valley—An Alpine Parlor—Exercise and Amusement—A Race with a Log CHAPTER XXXIV An Old Guide—Possible Accidents—Dangerous Habitation—Mountain Flowers—Embryo Lions—Mountain Pigs—The End of The World—Ghastly Desolation—Proposed Adventure—Reading-up Adventures—Ascent of Monte Rosa—Precipices and Crevasses—Among the Snows—Exciting Experiences—lee Ridges—The Summit—Adventures Postponed CHAPTER XXXV A New Interest—Magnificent Views—A Mule’s Prefereoces—Turning Mountain Corners—Terror of a Horse—Lady Tourists—Death of a young Countess—A Search for a Hat—What We Did Find—Harris’s Opinion of Chamois—A Disappointed Man—A Giantess—Model for an Empress—Baths at Leuk—Sport in the Water—The Gemmi Precipices—A Palace for an Emperor—The Famous Ladders—Considerably Mixed Up—Sad Plight of a Minister CHAPTER XXXVI Sunday Church Bells—A Cause of Profanity—A Magnificent Glacier—Fault Finding by Harris—Almost an Accident—Selfishness of Harris—Approaching Zermatt—The Matterhorn—Zermatt—Home of Mountain Climbers—Fitted out for Climbing—A Fearful Adventure —Never Satisfied CHAPTER XXXVII A Calm Decision—“I Will Ascend the Riffelberg”—Preparations for the Trip—All Zermatt on the Alert—Schedule of Persons and Things—An Unprecedented Display—A General Turn—out—Ready